11 Speed Hubs

We are now in the transition from 10 to 11 speed rear cassettes.  Shimano is at 11 on their Ultegra and Dura Ace and will be next year on their 105 (if rumors are correct),  Sram has it on the Force and Red and one has to believe will have in on Rival and most likely Apex for next year.

Most 10 speed hubs cannot be converted to 11 speed even with a new cassette body.  Some can so you need to check with the manufacturer if you want to move to 11.  Some 10’s already will work with 11 speed.

Our old R and M series hubs cannot be converted to 11 speed (one of the reasons I moved away from that hub maker).

Our current 11 speed hubs come with one spacer.  If you have an 11 speed set up you don’t need it.  If you have a 10 speed cassette you will need that spacer plus the one that normally comes with the 10 speed cassette (because the 10 speed cassette is narrower than the 9).  If you have a 9 speed cassette you will need just the one spacer that comes with the 11 speed hub.

Of course, there is no way you will ever remember that and that’s why Al Gore created the Internet.

Benny and Jim are off tomorrow to visit their families over the holidays and we will be closed Thursday through Sunday.  If you believe I can do the work of three on Wednesday you are sorely mistake but I will do what I can.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

Rear Wheels Spoke Breakage Solution

Rear Wheels

Over 95% of wheel problems affect the rear wheel.  Roughly 60% of the weight is on the rear wheel (and the more upright you ride, the larger the percentage).  Not only that, but it’s the drive wheel.  Good riders also have a natural tendency to take weight off the front wheel when going over rough roads guess where that puts the weight?

That’s why you can get by with fewer spokes and smaller bearings in the front wheel and still have fewer problems.  The last place in the world you want to have a problem is with a front wheel so having it little overbuilt is a good idea.

Almost all spoke breakage occurs in the rear wheel.  As a word of caution, if you are on the road and break a rear spoke and need to adjust them to get home, don’t try to adjust the drive side spokes because they are most likely so tight you will strip the nipples.  Do all adjustments with the non drive side spokes.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

Kickstarter

I’ve written about this before but crowd funding it now perched to redefine where we get cool gadgets and how they are funded.

In the old days, we relied on The Shaper Image, Hammacher Schlemmer, and other mail order catalogs to find cool new stuff.  Not any more.  Kickstarter has the latest and coolest of the coolest new projects.

That alone is pretty cool but here’s the twist that interests me.

Businesses now are using Kickstarter to fund projects like this Wahoo Smartphone bike computer.  This is a game changer.  Imagine you are a company and you have a product manager who wants to develop his or her pet project.  There are always more ideas than money so management has to weed out what they believe are the best investments.  Not any longer.

Make it a Kickstarter project.  The product manager has to put his idea up on Kickstarter.  Consumers will decide whether or not it’s a good enough idea to fund. For small businesses it replaces the need to go to banks for funding and most importantly, lets consumers dictate whether they want to buy a new product before it’s made.

Crowd funding is giving resources to people and companies with ideas and that is one of the best things the Internet has done.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

What Does It Cost To Shop?

Most specialty retailers (with brick and mortar stores) work on 50% profit margins (bike shops are normally at about 40% - source, a Google search).  If you pay $100 for something the retailer probably bought it for $50.

That’s what it costs you to shop locally. No one is robbing you.  That’s what it cost them to maintain a store front.  Competition keeps everyone honest.

The big guys (Costco and Walmart) work on smaller profit margins – abound 20%.  Even at that, Costco’s net profit is normally about what they charge for membership fees.  Walmart nets about 5% so their costs are 15%.

Internet retailers have lower overhead so they can sell for less.  Brands like mine can sell for a lot less because they are factory direct.  Store fronts are now caught in the middle.  Things don’t change overnight, but they do change quickly and it will be interesting to see what store fronts, towns, malls, shopping centers, and other retailers look like in ten years. 

Consumers will vote and decide who wins, but at this point nobody knows how they are going to vote.  Shopping is entertainment and people will pay for it.  The question is how much?

Fund Your Dream

When I started Neuvation, I put together a comprehensive business plan, put on a jacket and tie (something I have not done since) and marched down to the local bank to get start up money.  It quickly became crystal clear that banks were looking for collateral and not ideas.  That has not changed.

What has changed is that the Internet has provided a good method to seed start ups.  It’s called crowd funding.  Its beauty is its simplicity.  Post your idea on one of the crowd funding sites like www.kickstarter.com and anyone can invest.

I believe that the vast majority of investors are friends or acquaintances of the poster.  Use social networking to develop your contact list (Facebook, Linkedin, etc.).

If your idea is not funded to the minimum required to fund your project you get no money.  If you meet the minimums (which you determine), the crowd funding site gets their commission (Kickstarter takes 5%) and you get the rest.

Investors have no equity.  They simply get the first production of your idea (or whatever you offer for their investment).

Combine this with www.Alibaba.com  (the Chinese Ebay of manufacturers) and any idea for any industry can be funded and sourced through any Internet connection.

So there are no more excuses, no real barriers to entry, anyone can start their own dream business out of their house with little or no money.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

The Social Key

Many people are concerned about going to a party where they don’t know anyone.  How will they meet peopleand what will they talk about?  What is the thing that makes people social? 

The answer is so simple it sounds like a dirty trick and yet even the most socially nimble fall for it every time.

You get people to talk about themselves. What interests them?  Simple, it’s what interests them.

Find something to compliment, ask them what they do, about their kids, where they have been, or their interests.  I guaranty you can start a conversation on one of them.  Direct the conversation toward them.  As soon as you show interest in their interests, they like you.

Keep this as a road map for all social interactions.  You will never be running blind because you have an easily executable plan. 

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

Wider Is Better.

Wider Is Better.

John Kodin has been a friend of mine for about 30 years.  He rides over 10,000 miles a year and knows his stuff.  Here’s an e-mail I just got from him.

“I thought it was interesting that on Sunday I did 2 hours on a bike with the wide rims. Then switched to my cross bike with the old R28SLX rims for the final hour. I did notice a big difference on how the bike handled around turns and accelerations. I kept looking down at my tires to see if I have a slow leak and and to see if my tire air pressure had dropped. Because the bike felt much softer and spongier just rolling along on the flat sections. So wider is better!”

On sale and for sale this weekend are all of my wider rim wheels.  The R28SWCX SRP $799 Sale $499.  TheR28 AW SRP $565 Sale $339.  The M28 AW SRP $465 Sale $279.

With all of my wheels you can add cassettes, chains, tires or tubes at extremely low prices.  Much lower than I could sell them for on their own.  MAP pricing (minimum advertised pricing) policies don’t apply when I bundle them up so you get the savings.

Even in Alaska there are a couple of months left before the snow flies so now is a good time to get the new wider wheels.

Thanks for reading - John Neugent

Aero Versus Weight

I am not an engineer but I have learned how to listen to good ones.  Ever since most of us were bitten with the bike bug, we learned lighter was better.  As Shimano found out in the late 70s, teaching the value of aerodynamics is a hard lesson.

Here’s how the HED website states it.

Let's look at a few figures. Assume a rider uses a conventional bike over a 25 mile flat course time trial. He weighs 150 lb, his bike is another 20 lb, and he is producing 185 watts of power. The aero drag with this scenario would be approximately 6.5 lb using aero bars into a 2 mph headwind of between 0 and 5 degrees. With his standard bike, our rider's time would be around 1 hour 7 minutes and 38 seconds. If we reduced the weight of his bike by three pounds, that time would come down by just 3 seconds. However, swap the wheels to an aero design and the drag could be reduced to 6 lb. Even with the additional quarter pound weight of the new wheels, his time saving over 25 miles jumps dramatically to over 1 minute 30 seconds. No contest.

That's not a typo.  At speed, on relatively flat roads, 3 pounds only cut off 3 seconds.  Ever think about why all of the super high mileage cars look like bullets?  It saves gas.

losing 3 pounds only cut off 3 seconds

being aero cut off over 1 minute 30 seconds

Tire Sizes On Wider Rims

Tire Sizes On Wider Rims

What tire size should you use on the wider rims?  There are three factors to consider.

The wider the tire the lower the rolling resistance.

The wider the tire the heavier and less aerodynamic it is.

The Zipp 27 mm wide carbon tubular wheels were designed for 23 mm tires.  The Enve SES rims are slightly narrower and designed for 22-23 mm tires.

For ultimate speed, the answer is to go with the stock 23 mm tires for our wide alloy and carbon wheels but if you want a little bit more comfort and stability go with the 25C tires.  My personal favorites are 27C tires but there are many frames that don’t have that much clearance.

And if you want to ride almost flat free, don’t forget the tire sealant.

Every Move We Make

I am not going to comment on whether or not I believe this is good or bad.  The answer is complex.  But few of us are fully aware of the extent of how much our lives are being recorded.   An article revels that every phone call, e-mail, or any digital trail we leave, is being recorded by the US Government. 

We know for a fact that any keystroke we make on our computers is being recorded by Google to mine for advertising purposes.   They read my e-mail to show bike related ads based on my e-mail content .

Are you aware that you have a keystroke voice?  You can easily be identified by how you type because everyone types at different speeds, makes different mistakes, and has a notable signature method of typing.  Go to a public computer and you do not leave your identity behind.

Everything we do now is both digitally enhanced and recorded – when you wake up and turn on your phone, where you are, how fast you drive, and your Strava times.

Flats.

Nobody likes them.  They can take you out of a race and will disrupt your commute.  At the very best, it’s an aggravation. It’s very common to see many riders who really dread fixing flats because fixing one isn’t simple if you don’t know how to do it.  You can get tire liners (like Mr Tuffy) that help prevent flats but they are both heavy and dramatically increase rolling resistance.  

Or you can use a tire sealant.  Normally about one ounce (28 grams) of sealant will work for both tires.  The sealant won’t work with catastrophic failures that would require a tire replacement but will work for almost everything else. At bike shows you regularly see tire sealant companies stick ice picks into tires without them losing air.

Another great alternative is to carry a bottle of sealant so that if you do get a flat you just use the sealant instead of replacing the tube.  A much easier, quicker, and better fix (but have you ever seen anyone do this on a group ride?).  You will need tubes with removable valve cores (pretty common).

If you happen to run tubulars, this is a no brainer.  It kind of boggles my mind that the pros haven’t figured this one out yet – but they haven’t.  Think about it – 28 grams and no flats.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

Equipment Know-How

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Correct Tire Pressure Improves Your Ride

How much tire pressure should you run? Start by trying the manufacturer's recommended pressure, which you'll find printed on the tire sidewall (it's often on a small label but it might be molded into the casing, too, so look closely). This suggested inflation range is a good starting point. If it's a wide range, for example 40 to 60 psi, experiment to find which pressure works and feels best.

Pump Road Rubber More, Knobbies LessThe most common mistakes are riding with too little pressure in road tires and too much pressure in off-road rubber. The former happens because road treads don't have a lot of air volume. Sure, road tires are pumped up to high pressures. But, because they're skinny tires, there's hardly any air inside. Consequently, even if only a little leaks out (most bicycle tubes are made of butyl rubber, which is porous and naturally seeps air), the pressure and volume are greatly reduced. To prevent this, check tire pressure on a road bike before every ride. If you don't, you'll be riding on soft tires, which is asking for trouble. More about this in a minute.

Off-road rubber is inflated to lower pressures and because the tires are much wider than road models, there's considerably more air inside. These differences mean that fat tires don't seep air very quickly so they don't require frequent inflation the way skinny tires do. Unfortunately, the tendency is to over inflate off-road tires. By all means, if you're riding your fat tires exclusively on pavement and smooth surfaces, inflate them as hard as you like (don't exceed the manufacturer's maximum recommendation).

Go Low
If you're riding off road, however, seriously consider lower pressures -- in the 35- to 45-psi range, depending on the terrain and your weight. This will greatly increase your control and comfort over trails while improving traction and handling. Indeed, if you've been riding off-road on 50 to 60 psi, you'll be amazed at the difference.

How Low Is Too Low
Just, don't go too low. That'll increase the risk of a flat two ways (this holds true for road and off-road rubber): First, softer tires pick up more debris, which may work into the tires popping the tubes. Second, when you hit holes, ruts, rocks, etc, soft tires can deform to the point that the rim hits the ground or rock so hard that it pinches the tube (between the rim and obstacle) and cuts it in two places, which is what's known as a pinch flat or snakebite puncture (because the holes in the tube resemble a snakebite). Besides damaging the tube, this impact can bend the rim, leading to an expensive repair. Under-inflated tires also lack the sidewall rigidity needed for hard cornering. And, too-soft tires wear quicker.

Road RatingBut this doesn't mean you should always inflate road tires to the maximum pressure. Roads in the real world aren't billiard-table smooth. The jarring effect of bumpy pavement on over-inflated tires robs energy and makes for a bone-rattling ride. Properly inflated tires will roll over bumpy roads smoother and faster and get you home without shaking loose your dental work. On ultra-smooth roads, however, when rolling resistance is critical, such as in a time-trial or triathlon, go as high as 140 psi if your tires are rated to take it. Stay at the lower end of the pressure zone for comfort and rough roads.

Check Our ChartWhich pressure you use depends a lot on your weight. So we've put together this handy chart to help: (road listing is for 23c tire, off-road is for 2.0-inch-width tire). 

Rider Weight (pounds)	Road TirePressure (psi)	Off-Road TirePressure (psi)
110	95-105	35-38
140	105-115	37-40
170	110-120	40-43
200	120-130	42-45
230	125-135	45-48

Equipment Know-How

The 15% Rule Of Tire Inflation.

A good customer and newsletter reader, Charlie Zwick, sent me a copy of a great article from Bicycle Quarterly about tire inflation. It says, for most riding, tires should compress about 15% when you get on your bike. 

The front and rear tires, typically take remarkably different pressures. To determine yours, put your bike on a bathroom scale (with one wheel on a block of the same height) and get into your riding position. Record both front and rear wheel scale readings.

Bike and rider for me is about 210 pounds with 40% on the front wheel and 60% on the back. The chart indicates that I should be running 88/132 psi for 23C tires and about 75/100 for 25C. If we factor in an additional 11% pressure reduction that the wider rims offer (according to Steve Hed), that would equate to 67/98 for 25C and 78/117 for 23C. Note how low the pressure is in the "controlling" front tire - that, my friend, can change your world.

My significant other who with bike, hits the scales at about 140, would have these numbers. Normal width wheels 25C 55/75, 23C 62/88 and with wide rims 49/67 on 25C and 55/78 on 23C.

Tire pressure will affect your ride much more than any other factor – both in terms of comfort and performance. My guess is that less than 1% of bike riders are riding on the right tire pressures. You can experiment with tire pressures for free. Have fun.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent

Tire Pressure For Road Bike Tires on Wide Rim

Weight: 140 lbs

Road: Smooth and Rough

Tire: 23 c

Rim: 22 mm wide rim

Front: 94 psi

Rear: 100 psi

Weight: 140 lbs

Road: Climbing Mt. Diablo

Tire: 23 c

Rim: 22 mm wide rim

Front: 96 psi

Rear: 100 psi

Weight lbs	Front load	Rear Load	Tire Size	Front psi	Rear psi
150	67.5	82.5	23c	68	80
Weight lbs	Rim Width	Tire Size	Front psi	Rear psi
210	22mm	23c	78	117
150	22mm	23c	75	92
140	22mm	23c	55	78
140	19mm	23c	62	88
150	19mm	23c	90	106
210	19mm	23c	88	132
210	19mm	25c	75	100
210	22mm	25c	67	98
140	19mm	25c	55	75
140	22mm	25c	49	67

Neuvation Newsletter Tuesday April 30 th.

Aerodynamics And Power 101 Every day we have customers come in and want bikes that are both comfortable and fast.  My job is to tell them the dynamics of both.  At high speed (25 mph) 85% of the drag (or energy you exert) is due to aerodynamics.  And 85% of that is due to your position on the bike.  Sit up tall and you will catch wind like a wind block.  Put your back parallel to the ground and you will slice through the air. Your body position over the pedals is also critical.  The best power position is normally when your torso and upper leg form a 90 degree angle (or thereabouts).  Sit up tall and you lose that angle and power. The problem is that to be comfortable you give up lots of speed.  So most people compromise. On the next group ride (race) move into the “race position” of back parallel to the ground and notice how much easier it is to lead, and how  much more pain you feel in you lower back, neck and hands.  Often this change can mean all the difference between hanging on and being at the front – albeit in discomfort. We always want to buy our way into speed when, in fact, making a few changes in our body positions would be much more effective and cost nothing. Thanks for reading – John Neugent You can prebook any of the new 2014 model wheels now.  Your credit card will not be charged until we ship (in a few weeks).  Also new for 2014 is a new CX Ray model SL wheel that we sell online for $495 – the best stockwheels we have ever offered – with our new red hubs.

We Don’t Live In A Vacuum.

If we did, aerodynamics wouldn’t matter.  At speeds of 11-12 mph air resistance is equal to all of the other factors of riding resistance combined.  At 19 mph it’s 75% and increases as the speed does.

The slower you are the more it affects your overall time because you are out there longer (or so they say).  

But people buy bicycles primarily based on weight and appearance with little regard for their aerodynamics.  The biggest factors for bicycle aerodynamics are the wheels because they lead the bike, take up a lot of frontal area, and rotate like egg beaters.

Generally speaking, the fewer the spokes and the deeper the rim the more aerodynamic it is.  Wider and bullet shaped (as opposed to V shaped) profiles are also more aerodynamic.  Getting more aero is going to get you a lot more speed than reducing weight.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent
http://www.neuvationcycling.com/

The spokes are Sapim CX Ray spokes – the best out there.

The 15% Rule Of Tire Inflation.

A good customer and newsletter reader, Charlie Zwick, sent me a copy of a great article from Bicycle Quarterly about tire inflation. It says, for most riding, tires should compress about 15% when you get on your bike.

The front and rear tires, typically take remarkably different pressures. To determine yours, put your bike on a bathroom scale (with one wheel on a block of the same height) and get into your riding position. Record both front and rear wheel scale readings.

Bike and rider for me is about 210 pounds with 40% on the front wheel and 60% on the back. The chart indicates that I should be running 88/132 psi for 23C tires and about 75/100 for 25C. If we factor in an additional 11% pressure reduction that the wider rims offer (according to Steve Hed), that would equate to 67/98 for 25C and 78/117 for 23C. Note how low the pressure is in the "controlling" front tire - that, my friend, can change your world.

My significant other who with bike, hits the scales at about 140, would have these numbers. Normal width wheels 25C 55/75, 23C 62/88 and with wide rims 49/67 on 25C and 55/78 on 23C.

Tire pressure will affect your ride much more than any other factor – both in terms of comfort and performance. My guess is that less than 1% of bike riders are riding on the right tire pressures. You can experiment with tire pressures for free. Have fun.

Thanks for reading – John Neugent
http://www.neuvationcycling.com/


Optimum tire pressure for 22mm wide rim
front ->  96 psi
rear  -> 106psi

or 

Optimum tire pressure for 22mm wide rim
front -> 94 psi - 96 psi
rear  -> 102 psi - 106psi

Weight lbs Rim Width Tire Size Front Tire Pressure psi Rear Tire Pressure psi 210 22mm 23c           78        117 150 22mm 23c                 75 (86)          92 (100) 140 22mm 23c             55          78 140 19mm 23c           62                                              88 150 19mm 23c           90          106 210 19mm 23c           88         132